Sydney Food Diary

Himizu, all new

So way back when we gave you a sneak preview of a new restaurant that was really just getting rolling.

We attended the official opening for said restaurant at the end of November and we're encouraged both by the emerging format and the enthusiasm from the industry.

That restaurant was (and is) Himizu which is located in the old XO space in Potts Point, and it comes to from the same team who brought us Five Ways' treasured Wasavie (in fact behind the pans here is Ryoichi Shiratsgu from Wasavie). It's emphasis is on organic produce which has been specially sourced and the quality really shines through in the simple flavours.

Upon revisting last week we were really excited by the addition of a fixed price menu to maximize sampling. This is definately one to watch.

Himizu - 155 Victoria St Potts Point NSW 2011

A few more opening pics below:

La Locanda

So first up for this new year let's start with a real treat that we've only just discovered on returning. La Locanda (meaning the inn) is a sleepy little stunner.

Frankly I've no idea how we missed out on this place for so long. Though it does seem like the locals would want to keep it to themselves (meanwhile Surry Hills keeps sprouting Ital-glam).

It is up the road rather than in front of the beach but it's a great little room that brims with energy. And with tables spilling out onto the footpath, it's perfect for a warm summer night (such as the one we went).

And the great Italian food (via Chef Andrea Vagge, formerly of Otto and Nove) from the Sicilian olive onset to the sumptuously simple dessert finale rivals the best in town. We sampled stuffed calamari with a delicious basil and riccotta filling, superb pumpkin gnocci with pancetta, and some beautiful pork. (as well as a coupla desserts)

We recommend that you get here before the summer is over.

La Locanda, 65B Macpherson St, Bronte, (02) 9389 3666 BYO Everyday except Saturday.

Local Wine Bar & Restaurant

There is a lot to like at the Local. It's cozy and approachable just a short few steps from the spinning hum of Paddington's five ways. We are pleased to be seated in the leafy courtyard in the back, though it'd be just as easy to curl up inside in the soft low light.

The food is equally easy to like, direct and delicious - well executed and just unique enough to elevate it above the clutter.

We enjoyed the scallop ravioli on cauliflower puree with caramelised apple dressing but the star starter was sauteed asparagus perched on a potato cake and served with a poached egg and white truffle dressing.

Mains were equally well received. Crisp skin barramundi was dressed up with a sautee of hazelnuts, pancetta, cabbage and pinot noir. And in another starring role for the nut, chicken breast (marinated in chermoula spices) sat succulent on top of almond and current couscous.

Our dessert was a warm and tasty crumble served with tangy yoghurt ice cream.

Naturally the wine list is well put together and laden with treats. (we were thrilled to find one of our recent favorites '98 Geoff Merrill Reserve Cab Sav).

A great detail is the recipe card that arrives with the cheque (pictured above). [download a copy here]

Local Wine Bar & Restaurant is at 211 Glenmore Rd in Paddington. Tel: 9332 1577

More Bistro Moore

The last time we sat in this very room was after running away from a rainy match at Aussie Stadium during the rugby world cup. This time things are very different. Gone is the projection screen, the TVs too and long gone are the wet sweaty masses swilling and cheering.

We're at the Olympic Hotel in Paddington and we are about to dine at Bistro Moore and the room has be made over nicely (without overdoing it).

Here, Chef Giovanni Spinazzola serves up modern italian food that is simple enough to be eaten regularly but handled with enough finesse that it exceeds even a lot of food that tries to be more special.

He explains his style "My style is a combination of classical Italian and Modern cuisine. I tend to specialise in modern Italian as I love to mix and match Italian food with different kitchen styles like French and Swiss and most importantly Italian.Its such a cliche but my base philosophy would be best described as Flavours of Italy with the fresh produce of Australia"

For our part, we sampled zucchini flowers, lightly battered and stuffed with leek and blue swimmer crab, perfectly supple gnocchi with mushrooms and truffle and slow cooked duck leg with friseé, crisp pancetta, glazed fig and sweet vincotta dressing. And dessert a warm chocolate pudding with sour cherry sauce and marscarpone ice cream and the semifreddo crocante, ligurian honey and Italian nougat parfait (pictured above).

We'll be back for more. This is an affordable (by Sydney standards) haven from rain soaked games or over engineered menus. We only hope the next time it hasn't changed much.

Bistro Moore Olympic Hotel, 302 Moore Park Rd Paddington, 9361 6315

Grand CRU

So Cruise (the restaurant above the bar) dropped the "ise" earlier this year, moved upstairs to the former Posh bar and under the guidance of a new chef, Ed Halmagyi (ex Nove), they've set sail on a renewed venture.

And things at CRU seem to be cruising along nicely (despite the fact that the logo looks an uncomfortable crop of CRUISE).

At first glance the menu looked great and choices proved difficult.

In the end, we enjoyed grilled garfish salad which was perfectly light and wonderfully done. In slight contrast, a plump raviolo of wild wood pigeon was dressed in a sauce which for our taste was a bit heavy but the dish was none the less enjoyable.

The pheasant assiette main was an excellent dish and the baramundi, bug tail and zuccini flower special was also quite good (though not as good).

For desert we were stunned by a golden syrup tart with brown bread ice cream, I mean it was wonderful. So it may only be by comparison that a dessert special (some sort of chocolate mousse) fell a bit flat (well as flat as chocolate mousse can).

Service for the most part was polished but casual (just the way we like it).

There is a bit room for polishing here but overall we found more to praise than criticize. Add to that a stunning wine list which reflects the new name (not quite enough on the lower end though) and one of the best views in town and you'll definately want to come aboard.

CRU Restaurant - Level 3 Overseas Passenger Terminal West Circular Quay The Rocks, NSW 2000

Doorae me

Thanks to Lilian for recommending Doorae Korean Restaurant which we finally made it out to last night.

It really hit the spot and was almost* exactly what we've been looking for in great Korean food. The dolsut Bi Bim Bap, Man doo kim chi pancake and the pan chan (accompanying side dishes) were all great. Best of all however was that Doorae serves our favorite spicy silken tofu stew, (the dish we've been missing the most) and does a hearty, generous version which arrives bubbling away in it's hot stone bowl.

...we'll definately be back. (but we'll also try out some of your other recommendations)

Doorae Korean Restaurant. 209 Clarence Street, Sydney NSW 2000

* so it's not quite as supa-stylish as our beloved San in Toronto

Tabou

Packing some Burgundy from our recent trip to France, we set off for Tabou in Surry Hills, optimistic that it would be the perfect venue to uncork (it is BYO and was ready to seat us on little notice, which was a good start).

We knew too, of course, that the food was suitably French and we'd heard that it was handled quite well.

Our expectations were pleasantly exceeded.

The restaurant itself was really far more charming than we thought (from wlaking past), and while it is a bit cliched, it's far easier to buy into the illusion from the inside of this warm softly lit room.

We devoured the sweetbreads and the pheasant terrine then reveled in succulent pork loin (pictured above) and venison and couldn't find much fault with anything (though we weren't really looking, we were having too much fun enjoying the company of the ladies at the table beside us).

The service too was warmer and friendlier than we anticipated - a decidely Australian detail in the midst of so much Frenchness.

Tabou 527 Crown St Surry Hills NSW 2010

China Doll

"....My 98's boomin' with a trunk of funk..."

Ok, so we didn't love China Doll. Despite more than the daily recommended intake of hype that it has been serving up for the last while ( "like the old XO" and "clever and different" - two things we really wanted it to be).

We rocked up to Wooloomooloo Wharf chipper and enthusiastic (it really is a great location on a nice night) and were served a tasty but unnecessary scotch based cocktail (as a promotion for an upcoming special dinner). I don't normally complain about a free drink but we agreed that this felt like quite a gimmicky way to start a meal.

The food (once we got on to it) was ok, pleasant enough, (actually, pretty good in one instance) but didn't really rise to the menu descriptions, the grandeur of the venue or the afformentioned hype. Though the only dish that we truly didn't like was some unbelievably sweet salmon (which from menu was actually the dish we were most excited about) we just couldn't help feeling that you could find lots of food at least as good without the pomp and circumstancial pricetag.

That simply said, we won't ramble or nitpick (but we won't be back for another taste).

On the upside, the service was energetic and quite good but even our server didn't seem all that convinced by the food when prompted.

"...Yo Chuck, they must be on a pipe, right?..."

China Doll is at Shop 4, 6 Cowper Wharf Rd Woolloomooloo NSW 2011

mu shu

We expect more from a restaurant with a chefs' hat. And we expect more from a restaurant at these prices - but despite a stylish and slick surface that extends into the solid food, mu shu's inconsistent (sometimes non-existant) service and kitchen backlogs made for a disappointing experience (sadly, also our Valentine's Day + Sean's b-day experience).

Overall we did enjoy the food. Duck pancakes, stellar grilled marinated quail (above), even the pork, prawn and foie gras siu mai which the GFG called "unsuccessful" tickled our fancy....

and then we waited....

and waited....

and talked....(enjoyed the pinot noir)

and waited some more....

finally 45 minutes later....

(and after our server only checking in with us once to excuse the slowness)

Mains...

...Barossa chicken that was equal parts crispy and moist in a lovely soy and red vinegar dressing arrived as did peppered Wagyu beef that was satisfying and cooked just right (but all the same we should have ordered the barramundi). The were welcomed entusiastically. Less welcome were wok tossed snake beans in prawn sambal seemed to have been tossed around for the entire 45 minutes and with very little sambal.

Dessert too, was excellent, although we weren't sure we should be eating it so late in the evening.

Value for money is less relevant when the dining experience is smooth, snappy and amicable - because ours was none of the above, we'd have to say that mu shu fell well short of delivering to it's pricing. We'd also say there is a lot of work that needs to be done here if they wish to keep their chef's hat in 2006.

Rating:12/20

mu shu restaurant + bar 108 Campbell Parade Bondi Beach NSW 2026 61 + 2 9130 5400

Tsukasa

We won't say that ordering tempura or other other snacky nibbles at Tskasa is a mistake, but we will say that we won't ever do it again.

Instead we'll choose to get right down like Randy Bachman (to takin' care of business) with the incredible quality of the fish. Tataki, sushi, handrolls and especially sashimi all prepared with skill and care which belies both the price and the space (which really could use freshening up).

On this occasion the highlights were mackerel which was meltingly tender (sashimi), salmon belly which was the best we've sampled in Sydney and a whole yellowtail tataki-ed, tossed and lovingly re-inserted between the tail and head - all of which would be a bargain at twice the price.

Rating: 13/20

Tsukasa - 200 Crown St. East Sydney NSW 2010 9361 3818