Nestled in Glebe, In the former Darling Mills (great room), lies Darbar an Indian dressed in white linen and with lofty ambitions.
The space is cavernous but still carries a warmth and a charm that makes it unique and frankly, kinda cool. Because of this and the fact that Darling Mills (which was supposed to be pretty great) closed about a month before we remembered that we wanted to go there, we arrived here with high-hopes (and not-inconsiderable hunger).
We arrived for a late dinner (9pm) to a half-empty restaurant and were refused our request to sit at a table for four against the wall (as we were only two). Undaunted we ordered the special deluxe banquet to get what seemed to be the best sampling of an extensive menu covering the entire subcontinent.
Disappointingly, the food didn't rise too far above the ordinary. The masala dosai although tasty was also pretty skimpy (especially compared with Indian Palace and Nilgiri's among others) and the mixed tandoori meats came out relatively dry and lifeless (especially when compared with the super-duper tandoori sizzler at Flavour of India, just down the street).
Some dishes were proficient and there were some nice details (and as a reheated lunch the leftovers were tops) but overall Darbar doesn't live up to it's promise.
Rating: 11/20
Darbar Fine Indian Cuisine 134a Glebe Point Rd Glebe